PITTSBURGH — In the mood for a quick and easy dessert that ushers summer sweetly into fall?

The end of August and beginning of September are typically when peaches shine the brightest at Pennsylvania farmers markets and in local groceries. Georgia may call itself “The Peach State,” but Pennsylvania grows a lot of the fruit, too — nearly 40 million pounds each year with an annual value of approximately $20 million.

Some of the most celebrated fruit wear a “Chambersburg” sticker. Devotees say the Franklin County soil in which the trees have been planted for more than a century makes its peaches especially sweet and juicy. Having eaten quite a few over the years, often out of hand, I’d have to agree.

You can certainly hit the sweet spot with an old-fashioned cobbler or peach crisp, but the fruit is just as tasty in a crunchy parfait. Most often I make the treat with yogurt for breakfast, but if you layer the individual glasses or bowls with fresh whipped cream instead — here, gently spiced with cinnamon, vanilla and brown sugar — it’s a pretty terrific way to end a meal.

Homemade granola (so easy!) adds a wonderful crunch.

For more color and variety, add a handful of fresh blueberries or raspberries if you’ve got them.

While you can use any variety of peaches — freestones are probably the easiest to prepare — make sure the fruit is ripe but not overly squishy; there should only be a tiny bit of give when you (very gently) squeeze it.

To easily remove skin, cut a small X through the skin of the bottom of the peach, blanch in boiling water for about 10 seconds, then place in ice water. The skin should slide right off.

Peach Parfait

PG Tested

For granola

• 4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
• 1 1/2 cups mixed raw nuts and/or seeds, such as cashews, pecans or walnuts
• 1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
• Generous sprinkling of ground cinnamon
• 1/2 cup melted coconut oil
• 1/2 cup maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For whipped cream

• 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
• 1/3 cup packed brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Pinch of ground cinnamon

For parfait

• 4 peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced thin
• Fresh cherries or mint sprigs, for garnish

Prepare granola: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large mixing bowl, combine oats, nuts and/or seeds, salt and cinnamon. Stir to blend well.

Add oil, maple syrup and vanilla. Toss well, so that all the ingredients are lightly coated. Pour granola mixture onto your prepared pan and spread it out in an even layer.

Bake until lightly golden, about 24 minutes, stirring halfway. Remove from pan and allow to cool completely. (The granola will further crisp up as it cools.) You should end up with about 6 cups of granola — more than enough for the parfaits with some left over for snacking.

Prepare whipped cream: Using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip heavy cream, brown sugar and vanilla on medium-high speed until medium peaks form, about 3 — 4 minutes. Use immediately, or cover tightly and chill in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours

Assemble parfaits: Using a large spoon or pastry bag, fill wine or parfait glasses about 1/4 full with the spiced whipped cream. Sprinkle about 1/4 cup granola on top of the whipped cream, followed by 1/4 cup sliced peaches. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Garnish with a fresh cherry and/or mint sprig, and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

©2024 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

After chilling by the pool, sleeping in late and traveling with family on vacation, it’s fun for kids to be back with their friends. And what parent or caregiver doesn’t like the predictability of returning to weekday routines?

That said, getting back to a dependable daily schedule can take some time for mom or dad, who often are rushing home from work to prepare dinner, help with homework or get kids to and from practices.

One easy out is takeout. Nobody is going to judge you for grabbing a supermarket rotisserie chicken or bag of drive-thru burgers and fries. All five of my kids ate Sir Pizza — every single Friday — from kindergarten through high school, and it’s a must-have dish whenever they’re in town for a visit.

Yet, a homemade dinner is almost always cheaper than feeding the family with fast food — even with today’s high grocery prices. And it’s often just as quick, if not faster.

Plus, it just makes your house smell great. And if you get the kids to pitch in, kudos to you for helping them learn important life skills and encouraging family bonding.

The four simple, economical recipes that follow take 30 minutes or less to prepare. That leaves you free to finish up the week with Pizza Night on Friday.

Easy Sweet and Sour Pork

Who doesn’t like a tasty stir-fry? This one hangs its hat on boneless pork tenderloin, a tender cut that is easy to find in any grocery store. If you’re feeling adventurous and it’s on sale, substitute fresh chopped pineapple for canned. Serve over white or brown rice or noodles.

INGREDIENTS

2 cloves garlic, halved

1 1/2 -inch piece root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

2 tablespoons tomato puree

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

4 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey

15-ounce can pineapple chunks in juice, drained, juice reserved

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 pork tenderloin (about 1 pound 2 ounces) thinly sliced

2 red, yellow or orange bell peppers, deseeded and chopped

DIRECTIONS

Make sauce: Put the garlic and ginger in a mini chopper or blender with the tomato puree, rice vinegar, soy sauce, honey and pineapple chunks with their juice, and blend until smooth.

Put sesame oil in a saute pan over high heat and stir-fry the onion until tender, about 2 minutes.

Add pork slices and peppers. Reduce heat to medium. Stir-fry for 10 minutes.

Add sauce from the mini chopper or blender to pan and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve with noodles, rice or side dish of your choice.

Serves 4.

— “Easy Meals Every Day: Healthy Dinners for the Whole Family” by Pip Payne (Hamlyn, $26.99)

Cheeseburger Quesadillas

Quesadillas can be customized to any taste or flavor combination. Here, the hand-held comfort food is made with all your favorite cheeseburger fixings folded inside a flour tortilla — ground beef, cheddar, onion and dill pickles. They’re served with a mayonnaise-based “special sauce.”

INGREDIENTS

For the special sauce:

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons minced dill pickles

1 teaspoon yellow mustard

1 tablespoon minced white onion or shallot

2 teaspoons white vinegar

For burger:

1 pound ground beef (80/20 blend)

8 8-inch flour tortillas

2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

1 small white onion, chopped

Dill pickle chips and/or pickled jalapeño peppers

Shredded lettuce, for garnish

DIRECTIONS

Prepare sauce: In small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, ketchup, minced pickles, mustard, onion, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Cook beef until browned and cooked through, about 6-8 minutes, in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Drain well.

Wipe out skillet with a paper towel, then lightly coat with nonstick spray. Bring pan back to medium heat. Working with one tortilla at a time, add to skillet.

Fill 1 tortilla with 1/2 cup cheddar cheese, 1/4 of the cooked beef, chopped onion, dill pickle slices and pickled jalapeño, if using.

Top with a second tortilla and cook until cheese is melted and tortilla is golden brown on one side, about 2 minutes.

Using a spatula, flip quesadilla and continue cooking on other side until all the cheese is melted and the second side is golden brown.

Transfer to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Repeat with remaining tortillas, cheddar, beef, onions and pickles. Cut each quesadilla into four pieces and stack on each of the four plates.

Garnish with shredded lettuce, and serve with special sauce for dipping.

Serves 4.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Honey Lemon Chicken

This fresh and zesty chicken saute takes less than 20 minutes to prepare. It can be served with pasta, rice or any other favorite grain. For added heat, add a tablespoon of sweet chili sauce or a dash or Sriracha.

2 large chicken breasts, sliced in half horizontally

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon sweet or hot paprika

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup chicken stock

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons honey

1 lemon, sliced into half moons

1 tablespoon chopped parsley, for garnish

Cooked rice, spaghetti or orzo, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Place chicken fillets on a plate or a metal tray. Mix together flour, salt, pepper and paprika. Coat both sides of the chicken with the flour mixture.

Heat oil and butter in a large frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat until butter melts.

Add chicken to the pan and cook for 7-8 minutes, turning once, until both sides are golden brown.

Add garlic, stir for 30 seconds (don’t let it burn), then add the chicken stock, lemon juice, honey and lemon slices.

Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes until the sauce is slightly reduced. (Simmer for a few minutes longer if you want it thicker.)

Sprinkle with fresh parsley and serve with rice or pasta.

— “Quick & Easy: Delicious 30-Minute Dinners” by Nicky Corbishley (Kyle Books, $26.99)

Skillet Eggplant Parmesan

This vegetarian dish is so good and so easy! Made in a skillet instead of a casserole dish using canned tomatoes and sandwich bread, it’s both quick and economical.

Look for eggplants that are lightly firm and have shiny skin; they won’t continue ripening after they’ve been picked.

INGREDIENTS

For sauce:

2 14.5-ounce cans whole peeled tomatoes, drained, with juice reserved

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

For eggplant:

6 slices high-quality white sandwich bread, torn into quarters

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon pepper, divided

3 large eggs

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2 globe eggplants (about 12 ounces each), sliced into 1/4 -inch-thick rounds

1 cup vegetable oil

8 ounces shredded mozzarella

1/3 chopped fresh basil, optional

INGREDIENTS

Make sauce: Process tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and salt together in food processor until pureed, about 15 seconds.

Transfer mixture to liquid measuring cup and add reserved tomato juice as needed until sauce measures 2 cups.

Prepare eggplant: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees.

Pulse bread in food processor to fine, even crumbs, about 15 pulses. Transfer crumbs to pie plate and stir in 1/2 cup Parmesan, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Beat eggs in a shallow bowl or plate.

Combine flour and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper in large zipper-lock bag.

Place eggplant slices in bag of flour, shake bag to coat, then remove eggplant from bag and shake off excess flour. Using tongs, coat floured eggplant with egg mixture, allowing excess to drip off.

Coat all sides of eggplant with bread crumbs, using your fingers to help them adhere. Lay breaded eggplant slices on wire rack set over rimmed baking sheet.

Heat half of the oil in 12-inch, oven-safe, nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering.

Add half of breaded eggplant slices and cook until well browned on both sides, about 4 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking.

Transfer eggplant to wire rack and repeat with remaining breaded eggplant, adding oil as needed. (You might not need the entire 1/2 cup oil.)

Pour off oil left in skillet and wipe out skillet with paper towels. Spread 1 cup of tomato sauce over bottom of skillet and layer eggplant slices evenly, overlapping them slightly.

Dollop remaining 1 cup sauce on top of eggplant and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and mozzarella.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake until bubbling and cheese is browned, 13-15 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, then sprinkle with basil, if using, and serve.

Serves 4.

— adapted from “The Complete Cooking for Two Cookbook” (America’s Test Kitchen, $34.99)

To start, a drool-worthy carpaccio made from vine-ripe tomatoes. Though traditionally meat based, carpaccio, said to have been named for Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for his use of deep red, can refer to any dish that is presented thinly sliced and spread across the plate. But the recipe here is much more than a mere plate of sliced tomatoes. The key is using truly ripe ones, no matter what color they are, but large red ones are ideal.

Use your best extra-virgin olive oil for the dressing, which also features briny shallots and capers, a whiff of garlic and a touch of anchovy. Finish with a handful of torn basil leaves for an easily executed first course.

For a seasonal main, firm, meaty fish like striped bass or halibut makes a good choice for pairing with the sweet pepper harvest. It’s fine to use standard bell peppers, but preferably, find some wonderful shapely variety like the curvy corno di toro, available in shades of red, yellow and orange. An assortment of colors makes for a dramatic rendition. Cooking all of the peppers slowly in olive oil, with onion and garlic, punched up with cayenne and smoked paprika, intensifies their sweetness.

To maximize the peppers and avoid any odd scraps, cut them in half lengthwise, right through the stem, then remove the stems, veins and seeds (as opposed to cutting off the tops and bottoms first, as some recipes advise).

I recommend making the pepper mixture well in advance, even a day ahead, so the only cooked-to-order parts of the dish will be preparing the fish and any last-minute herb chopping.

To finish, enter those late-summer plums — especially the small dark purple, yellow-fleshed Italian ones, which are a delight, and highly recommended. (If you can’t find them, other types of plum or even pluots will work for this dessert.)

Simply split them in half and arrange them cut side up in a pie plate, then scatter with a crunchy almond-scented, streusel-like topping and bake. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a dollop of crème fraîche or barely sweetened softly whipped cream for the final exercise in simple seasonal cooking, delivering real flavor with ease.

Recipe: Tomato Carpaccio

By David Tanis

Really not much more than a plate of sliced tomatoes, the key to this dish is truly ripe tomatoes, the kind you get at the farmers’ market at summer’s end. It doesn’t matter what color they are, though large red ones are ideal. Use your best extra-virgin oil for the dressing, which also features briny shallots and capers, a whiff of garlic and a touch of anchovy. Finish with a handful of basil leaves.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

• 4 to 6 large tomatoes on the vine (about 3 pounds)
• 4 anchovy fillets, rinsed and roughly chopped
• 2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and roughly chopped
• 1 large shallot, finely diced
• 1 small garlic clove, grated
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Basil leaves, for garnish

Preparation:

1. Wash and core the tomatoes. With a serrated knife, slice them as thinly as possible, then cover a platter edge to edge with a single layer of slices.

2. In a small bowl, combine anchovy, capers, shallot and garlic. Add a good pinch of salt and stir to combine. Add vinegar and let steep for 10 minutes, then whisk in olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning.

3. To serve, sprinkle tomatoes lightly with salt, then spoon the dressing generously and evenly over everything. Grind pepper over the platter and garnish with basil leaves.

Recipe: Baked Fish With Slow-Cooked Peppers

By David Tanis

Meaty fish like striped bass, swordfish and halibut make good choices for pairing with the late-season vegetable harvest, specifically sweet peppers. Whether you use standard bell peppers, Italian “frying” peppers or some wonderful shapely variety, like corno di toro, cut them in half vertically, right through the stem, then remove the veins and seeds (as opposed to cutting off the tops first). That way, you’ll be able to make long slices, without any oddly sized leftover bits.

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 50 minutes

Ingredients:

For the Fish:

• 4 boneless (skin-on or skinless) fillets of striped bass or halibut (about 2 pounds)
• Salt and black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing the pan

For the Peppers:

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large onion, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons
• 6 bell peppers in a mix of colors, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne
• 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
• 1 tablespoon snipped chives

Preparation:

1. Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Using a spice mill or a mortar and pestle, grind coriander and fennel seeds to a powder. Combine with lemon zest, then rub mixture into each fillet. (At this point, you can cook right away or refrigerate for up to 4 hours, then bring to room temperature to cook.)

2. Prepare the peppers: Set a Dutch oven or wide, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil looks wavy, add onion and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until onion begins to brown and soften, about 5 minutes. Add the sliced peppers with a good pinch of salt and the garlic, paprika and cayenne, and turn heat to medium. Simmer with lid ajar, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens, about 15 minutes more. (Peppers should be quite soft and cooking them down may take up to 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning along the way.) Set aside and let steep. (You can make the peppers hours or up to a day ahead and keep refrigerated.)

3. To cook fish, heat oven to 375 degrees and set a large cast-iron pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Lay fish in pan in one layer and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Flip fillets with a spatula and carefully set the pan in the oven, uncovered. Bake for 3 to 5 minutes, until the fish is firm and beginning to flake. Sprinkle fish with parsley and chives, and serve with the peppers.

Recipe: Plum-Almond Crumble

By David Tanis

Late-summer plums, especially the small dark purple, yellow-fleshed ones called Italian prunes, are a delight. They are handy for cakes and tarts, but here, they are baked with an almond-scented, streusel-like topping.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: 55 minutes

Ingredients:

• 2 1/2 pounds small purple plums (about 12)
• Granulated sugar, for sprinkling
• 1 cup/128 grams all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup/110 grams packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup/113 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 1/2 cup/54 grams slivered almonds
• 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
• Pinch of salt
• Crème fraîche or barely sweetened softly whipped cream (optional)

Preparation:

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Wash plums and cut in half with a paring knife. Remove and discard pits. (Larger plums may be quartered.)

2. Place plums cut side up in a deep 9- or 10-inch pie pan. (It’s fine if they don’t all fit in one layer.) Sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar.

3. Make the topping: In a medium bowl, place flour, brown sugar, butter, almonds, almond extract and salt. Using your fingertips, work the mixture until it resembles rough pea-size crumbs.

4. Mound the topping loosely over the plums, covering the entire surface. Bake for about 40 minutes, until nicely browned and oozing.

5. Let cool slightly, or serve at room temperature, with a dollop of crème fraîche or softly whipped cream.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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Many folks successfully cook fruits, vegetables and sauces and “can” or process them for shelf-stable storage, and my hat’s off to them. I play it safe (and easy) by freezing and drying herbs and produce rather than canning, which, if not done properly with specialized equipment and specific recipes, can result in food-borne illnesses.

One year, after an excruciatingly hot September day spent outdoors washing, cutting, cooking, straining and processing jars of tomato sauce with my family, they nearly kicked me out. Sure, it was all fun and games for the first hour or two, but as the day progressed, I nearly had a mutiny on my hands. To make matters worse, I used a very deep pot over too-high heat and burned the whole batch. I envy those who have mastered the process.

Easy ways to preserve tomatoes

These days, I boil whole tomatoes for just a minute or two, remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon and allow them to cool for a few minutes before removing their skins with my fingers. After cutting them into wedges, I pulse them in a food processor, then cook them on the stovetop for 30 minutes and salt to taste. When the sauce has cooled, I pour it into airtight, zipper-top freezer bags, Mason jars or plastic containers, allowing an inch of headspace for expansion.

If I have plans to use the sauce for pasta, I’ll add fresh basil and garlic cloves to the container so that it’s ready to go when I am. If I’m uncertain of the sauce’s fate, I’ll freeze it plain and season it as needed.

Another way I keep tomatoes is by freezing them whole, and it couldn’t be easier: I rinse each fruit, pat it dry and place as many as will fit into a gallon-size, zipper-top freezer bag. Freezing them whole not only preserves their flavor and texture but also makes it convenient to use them in soups, stews or other recipes. When I want to add tomatoes to a dish, I grab one from the bag, peel off its skin, which removes easily, then drop the tomato in the pot and break it up with a spoon as it defrosts.

Herbs are even easier

Although they can be dried, my preferred method for preserving chives and flat-leaved herbs, like basil, parsley and cilantro, is to freeze them, either as whole leaves or chopped in oil infusions (directions below).

For the best flavor, harvest herbs in the morning, after the sun has risen but before the dew has dried. This is the time of day when their essential oils are most concentrated.

To freeze leaves for individual use, remove them from stems, rinse and pat dry, then spread on clean towels in a single layer until all the residual rinsing moisture has evaporated. Toss occasionally to ensure even drying. This may take a couple of days. Next, place leaves in a single layer on a cookie sheet and freeze overnight. Place frozen leaves in a zipper-top plastic bag and return to the freezer for future use. This method allows you to remove individual leaves as needed; skipping the evaporation step would result in a frozen block that would be difficult to break.

Other ways to preserve herbs

To make oil infusions, remove leaves from stems, then rinse and pat dry with a clean towel or paper towel. Cut leaves into quarter-inch pieces using herb snippers (or clean, sharp scissors). Fill the compartments of a 1- or 2-ounce silicone freezer tray, such as the ones made by Souper Cubes, halfway with herb clippings, and fill the remainder of each compartment with the oil of your choice. Freeze overnight, then carefully pop individual cubes from the tray and store them in a zipper-top bag in the freezer.

Herbs can also be dried to keep them at room temperature. This is my preferred method for those with small, textured or needled leaves, such as thyme, sage, oregano and rosemary.

Rinse, remove from stems and set out in a single layer on clean towels to dry. Because the goal here is to dehydrate the leaves rather than allow only excess moisture to evaporate from around and between them, the process will take considerably longer. Toss leaves daily. When they become crunchy, add them to clean jars or other sealable containers and store them as you would dry herbs from the store.

No-work pickles

And if you want to get really easy, try my no-effort refrigerator pickles. Most refrigerator pickles, which are shortcuts in their own right, require boiling a brine made from vinegar, spices, sugar and salt, and pouring it over sliced cucumbers in a jar, then refrigerating.

I skip all that and simply add my own sliced cucumbers to the brine that’s already in an empty jar of pickles. They’re delicious after 24 hours in the fridge and even better after 48 hours. You can get two batches out of that pickle juice. Why let it go to waste?

For more AP gardening stories, go to https://apnews.com/hub/gardening.

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I’m guessing the last thing you want to do is figure out those meal plans (and don’t even get me started on those lunchboxes). Maybe you even want to reboot your cooking altogether? Let me help you.

I write a newsletter for New York Times Cooking called Five Weeknight Dishes, and last September, I created a list of 100 dinner recipes for you to try. Now I’m back with a whole new list for you to make in the months ahead, in honor of the back-to-school energy that rolls off Labor Day weekend and propels you through the months ahead. This article includes seven recipes, but you’ll find a full list of 100 at nytcooking.com.

The thing all these recipes have in common — aside from their fast cook times and streamlined approaches to ingredients — is that they are all delicious.

Skillet Chicken With Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions

This comforting one-pot dinner is reminiscent of a rich French onion soup, but made in less time and with lighter ingredients. Cooking the onions in a hot, dry pan forces them to release their moisture, so that they shrink and become silky and sweet in 30 minutes. Serve everything directly from the pan, with some crusty bread to soak up all the juices, or shred the chicken and pile it on top of buttered noodles. For something green, stir in some spinach to wilt at the end or serve alongside a simple green salad or roasted broccoli.

By Yasmin Fahr

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

• 5 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
• 2 teaspoons honey
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 3/4 pound cremini mushrooms, stems removed and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley or dill leaves and fine stems, roughly chopped
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan or pecorino (optional)
• Bread or cooked pasta, for serving

Preparation:

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar, the honey, mustard, red-pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon salt; whisk until smooth. Pat the chicken dry and season with salt and pepper, then add to the mixture, coating it well. Set aside at room temperature, stirring it once while you make the onions.

2. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron or heavy skillet over medium-high until very hot, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then add the onions in an even layer. Season with salt, then cook, mostly undisturbed, for 4 minutes more, stirring every minute or so. Add the mushrooms, season with salt, and stir to combine. (It will look crowded, and that’s OK.) Allow to cook mostly undisturbed until the mushrooms shrink and start to brown, about 4 minutes, stirring every minute or so.

3. Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and allow the onions to cook until they start to color, stirring and lowering the heat as necessary to avoid burning, about 2 minutes. Push the onions and mushrooms to the edges of the skillet, then add the chicken pieces to the center. Pour any remaining marinade (there will be very little) over the onions and mushrooms. Cook undisturbed for 4 to 5 minutes, then combine the chicken and vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes more. (Reduce the heat to medium if the onions look like they are burning at any point.)

4. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, stirring and scraping up anything on the bottom of the skillet. Season to taste with salt.

5. Remove from the heat and top with the parsley and cheese, if using. Serve with bread or pasta.

Lentils Cacciatore

Chicken cacciatore is an Italian hunter’s stew that’s made by braising chicken with tomato, aromatics and vegetables, like red peppers, onions, carrots, rosemary, olives and so on. This braise’s cozy, deep flavors are equally tasty with red lentils in place of the poultry. In less than half an hour, red lentils break down to create a creamy, rich vegetarian stew. Carrots and red peppers make it a hearty meal, but you could also eat it over pasta, polenta or farro. If serving with pasta, thin the cacciatore with a little pasta water before tossing with the noodles.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1 red bell pepper, stems and seeds removed, thinly sliced lengthwise
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1/4 cup capers, drained
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste
• 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary
• 1/2 cup red wine or stock (or 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar or sherry vinegar)
• 1 (14-ounce) can crushed or diced tomatoes
• 3/4 cup red lentils (see Tip)

Preparation:

1. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat the oil over medium-high. Add the carrots and bell pepper, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just softened, 3 minutes.

2. Add the capers, tomato paste, garlic and rosemary and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomato paste begins to stick to the bottom of the pot, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Add the wine, season with salt and pepper, and cook until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Add the tomatoes, red lentils and 2 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, partly cover, then reduce the heat and simmer until the lentils start to break down and lose their shape, 20 to 25 minutes. Stir vigorously from time to time to scrape any stuck lentils from the bottom of the pot. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Tips: You could also use canned white beans, or dried brown lentils, which won’t break down as much as red lentils.

Dumpling Noodle Soup

Keep a package or two of frozen dumplings in your freezer for this warming weeknight meal. This recipe is loosely inspired by wonton noodle soup, but replaces homemade wontons with store-bought frozen dumplings for a quick alternative. The soup base, which comes together in just 10 minutes, is surprisingly rich and full-bodied, thanks to the trio of ginger, garlic and turmeric. Miso paste brings extra savoriness, but you could substitute soy sauce or tamari. Scale up on veggies if you like; carrots, peas, snow peas or mushrooms would be excellent additions. Any type of frozen dumpling works in this dish, making it easy to adapt for vegan, vegetarian or meat-loving diners.

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 6 ounces thin dried wheat, egg or rice noodles
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 (2-inch) piece ginger, grated
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 6 cups vegetable stock
• 2 tablespoon white miso paste
• 16 ounces frozen dumplings (not thawed)
• 4 baby bok choy (about 12 ounces), trimmed and each cut into 4 pieces through the stem
• 1 small head broccoli (about 9 ounces), cut into bite-size florets
• Handful of cilantro or chopped scallions, for serving

Preparation:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook according to package instructions, until the noodles are just tender. Drain, rinse with cold water and drain well again. Divide them among four serving bowls.

2. Place the same large pot over medium heat, and add sesame oil, ginger and garlic. Stir and cook for 30 seconds, until aromatic. Add turmeric, and stir for 15 seconds, until fragrant.

3. Pour the vegetable stock into the pot, then season with 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and cook for 8 to 10 minutes on medium heat, to allow flavors to meld.

4. Remove the lid and add the miso paste, stirring constantly until it is dissolved. Taste, and season with more salt, if needed.

5. Increase the heat to medium-high, and carefully drop the dumplings into the broth. When they float to the top, add the baby bok choy and broccoli, and cook for about 2 minutes, just until the broccoli is crisp-tender.

6. Ladle the broth, dumplings, baby bok choy and broccoli into the four bowls over the noodles. To serve, top with cilantro or chopped scallions.

Sticky Miso Salmon Bowl

Miso salmon is an easy meal for any night of the week but it gets taken to a whole other level here with the additions of grapefruit and honey. Combining the zest and juice from the grapefruit with honey, miso and a bit of ginger gives the fish a sticky-tangy finish when broiled. The sushi rice is mixed with a humble pat of butter and some sliced scallions, making it a comforting counterpart to this simple fish for an elegant weeknight dinner.

By Andy Baraghani

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

• 2 cups sushi rice
• 3 tablespoons white miso
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
• 2 teaspoons fresh grapefruit zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
• 4 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless salmon fillets, patted dry
• Salt and pepper
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cubed
• Any combination of kimchi, chile crisp, toasted nori sheets, and sliced cucumber, avocado or radish, for serving

Preparation:

1. Put the rice in a medium bowl and fill with cool tap water. Run your fingers through the rice, gently swooshing the grains around to loosen the starch. Dump out as much water as you can and repeat until the water runs slightly more clear, another two to three rinses.

2. Drain the rice and transfer to a small or medium saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Pour in 2 1/4 cups cool water and bring to a boil over medium-high. Give the rice a stir to help keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pot, then cover and decrease heat to low. Cook without lifting the lid for 18 minutes. (Set your timer!)

3. While the rice is cooking, place a rack about 5 inches from the broiler heat source and set the broiler to high. Whisk the miso, honey, oil, ginger and grapefruit zest and juice in a large bowl. Season the salmon lightly with salt and add to the bowl. Gently toss to coat. Marinate at room temperature until the timer for the rice goes off.

4. Remove the pot of rice from the heat and let steam, covered, for 10 minutes, while you cook the salmon.

5. Using tongs, arrange the salmon on a foil-lined rimmed sheet tray. Make sure to leave the marinade on and spread any excess on top of the fillets. (This step will make for better browning.) Broil the salmon until glossy and charred in most spots, about 5 minutes for medium-rare or 7 minutes for medium. Your timing will also depend on whether or not you’d like a little char on top.

6. Uncover the rice and add the scallions and butter. Season with salt and several grinds of pepper. Fluff the rice with a rubber spatula until each grain is coated. Serve the salmon over the rice and add any of the toppings you desire.

Sausage Smash Burgers

The delightful characteristics of a beef smash burger — thin, quick-cooking patties with a superbly caramelized ragged edge — are applied here to Italian-style sausage. (The stress relief from smashing food is yet another smash burger perk.) Mayo smeared on soft brioche buns along with a tangle of sautéed sweet peppers and onions top the patties, making this a bit like the sausage and peppers of the burger world. Optional oregano adds a fresh herbal accent. Each bite is savory, rich, sweet and smashingly craveable. These sandwiches are delicious all by themselves, but if you’d like a side, serve with a green salad or French fries.

By Christian Reynoso

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 pound loose pork sausage, such as mild or hot Italian sausage
• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons neutral oil, plus more if needed
• 2 small yellow, orange or red bell peppers (about 10 ounces total), halved, stemmed and thinly sliced
• 1/2 large red or yellow onion (about 5 ounces), thinly sliced from root to stem
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• Salt and pepper
• 2 teaspoons red or white wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 4 brioche or burger buns, split and lightly toasted
• 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves (optional)

Preparation:

1. Form the sausage into 4 roughly shaped spheres and set aside.

2. In a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high. Add the peppers, onion and garlic, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. (Cook in batches, if the pan seems crowded.) Transfer to a medium bowl, add the vinegar, toss and season with salt and pepper, to taste.

3. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil to the same skillet and heat on high. Once very hot, add 2 sausage portions to the pan, then smash them down with a spatula or metal press into 1/2-inch-thick patties. Cook, undisturbed, until deeply browned and caramelized on the bottom, about 2 minutes, then flip over and cook until just cooked through, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining sausage, adding more oil if necessary.

4. While the burgers are cooking, spread the mayonnaise on the inside of each piece of brioche, and, if using, sprinkle the oregano over. Top bottom buns with sausage patties, sautéed peppers and onions, then top buns, and serve.

Eggplant Adobo

This superpunchy, one-skillet vegetarian meal is inspired by chicken adobo, a beloved Filipino dish. Here, eggplant cooks in rich, tangy adobo sauce — a blend of soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, black pepper and bay leaf — absorbing the savory flavors as it simmers. Coconut milk is added in some versions of adobo, creating a rich, silky texture to balance out the sauce’s tart notes. This recipe includes a shower of fragrant basil, which brings a fresh hit that lifts the dish. (Thinly sliced scallions would also be great.) Serve the eggplant over rice to catch all of its flavorful drippings.

By Kay Chun

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 5 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or safflower
• 1 1/2 pounds eggplant (preferably small Italian eggplant), cut into 1-inch cubes (about 8 cups)
• Kosher salt and pepper
• 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
• 1/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
• 1 tablespoon turbinado or light brown sugar
• 1/2 white onion, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 fresh or dried bay leaf
• 1/4 cup chopped basil, plus additional small leaves for garnish
• Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

Preparation:

1. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium. Add half of the eggplant, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with 2 tablespoons of the oil and the remaining eggplant.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine soy sauce, coconut milk, vinegar, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 2 tablespoons of water; mix well.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the onion to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden, 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, 1 minute.

4. Add the browned eggplant, soy sauce mixture and bay leaf and toss to evenly coat. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring every 5 minutes, until the eggplant is tender but still has structure, about 10 minutes. Uncover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and nicely coats the eggplant, about 2 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the chopped basil.

5. Divide the eggplant mixture over rice among bowls. Garnish with basil leaves and serve warm.

Peanut Butter Noodles

This nutty midnight pasta is a dream to cook, as it requires just a handful of pantry staples and one pot. Peanut butter (the less fancy, the better) anchors a creamy sauce swathed in umami. Accentuated by a good, salty Parmesan, these noodles recall those cheesy peanut butter sandwich crackers. They make an ideal dinner for one, but the amounts can easily be doubled or quadrupled as needed. For an equally gripping vegan alternative, try swapping out the butter for olive oil and the cheese for nutritional yeast.

By Eric Kim

Yield: 1 serving

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• Salt
• 4 ounces spaghetti or 1 individual package instant ramen (seasoning packet saved for another use)
• 2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce

Preparation:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil (and salt it, if using spaghetti). Cook the noodles according to package instructions. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the noodles and return to the pot. Turn off the heat.

2. Add the peanut butter, butter, Parmesan and soy sauce. Vigorously stir the noodles for a minute, adding some reserved cooking water, a tablespoon or two at a time, until the sauce is glossy and clings to the noodles. Season to taste with salt.

3. Top with more cheese, if you’d like, and serve immediately.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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These chicken nuggets are crispy, easy to prepare and “waayyyy better than what you get at a drive-up window,” Bittman writes. “If you double this recipe, you’ll have enough for a lot of hungry people, or make enough to freeze the leftovers in an airtight container to heat later in the microwave.”

Chicken Mark Nuggets

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound boneless chicken (tenders, breasts, cutlets or thighs)
• Salt and pepper
• 1 cup whole milk
• 4 cups cornflakes
• 3 tablespoons good-quality vegetable oil, plus more as needed

DIRECTIONS

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the chicken into chunks about 2 inches long. Put them in a medium bowl, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and pour in the milk. Toss with a fork until the pieces are all coated with the milk. Let the chicken sit while you get everything ready to cook.

Put the cornflakes in a shallow bowl and crumble them with your hands or a potato masher. Crush the flakes into crumbs about the size of coarse bread crumbs. (For a more even coating, make finer crumbs by pulsing the cornflakes in a blender or food processor.)

To set up for breading and baking, put a large rimmed baking sheet on a counter or table and smear the bottom with the oil. On one side (depending on whether you like to work from the left or the right), put the bowl with the crumbs. Next to that, put the bowl with the chicken.

Toss the chicken again with the fork to make sure all the pieces are wet. With tongs (or your hands), one at a time lift a piece of chicken from the bowl and roll it in crumbs until coated all over. As you work, put the pieces on the oiled pan, spreading them out so they’re evenly placed without touching. (Be sure to wash your hands once you’re done with this step.)

Bake: Set a timer for 10 minutes and let the chicken bake without touching. You’re looking for a crunchy-looking golden brown crust to form on the bottom as the oil sizzles. You’ll see it around the edges when the pieces are ready, and you’ll be able to turn them easily without tugging. Tongs are the best tool to avoid splatters, but sometimes a stiff spatula can help loosen every bit from the pan. If they’re not ready to turn when the timer goes off, set it for another 5 minutes and check again to see if they’re ready to turn.

If you used breasts or tenders, bake the second side for another 5 minutes (or 8 minutes for thighs). You want the second side to be about the same color as the first. To test for doneness, carefully remove the pan and cut into a piece with a fork and small knife so you can peek. The meat should feel firm against the fork and cut easily, and you’ll see no pink. The juices should be clear. You don’t have to check every piece once you get the hang of what they look like.

Sprinkle the nuggets with a little salt and pepper if you like. Serve them plain, or with a condiment or homemade sauce for dipping on the side.

Variations

Fish: Instead of the chicken, use firm thick fish fillets like salmon, cod, catfish or halibut. Everything else in the recipe stays the same. Follow the cooking times for chicken breasts.

Pork or beef: Instead of the chicken, use boneless beef or pork sirloin or loin chops or steak. Everything else in the recipe stays the same. Follow the cooking times for chicken thighs.

— Mark Bittman, “How to Cook Everything Kids” (Harvest, $35, due out Oct. 15)

Harissa, a North African spice paste made with dried chiles, garlic, citrus and extra-virgin olive oil, is a great quick marinade for meat, Chambers says. You can also dollop the spice paste into soup or scrambled eggs or stir it into something creamy, like sour cream or yogurt, to create a dipping sauce. Here it adds incredible flavor to poultry.

“The grill is my secret weapon for quick weeknight cooking,” she say. “There’s barely any cleanup afterward!”

Grilled Lemon Harissa Chicken

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts and/or thighs
• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon harissa, plus more as needed
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• Kosher salt
• 1 lemon, plus more as needed
• 3 medium zucchini
• 3/4 cup labneh, sour cream or plain full-fat Greek yogurt
• 1/4 cup soft herbs, such as dill, parsley, chives, basil or a mix

DIRECTIONS

Heat an outdoor grill to medium-high (400 to 450 degrees).

In a large bowl, combine the chicken, 2 tablespoons of the harissa, 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons salt. Using a Microplane, grate in the zest of the lemon, then halve the lemon and squeeze in the juice from one half (reserve the other half for the sauce). Toss to coat.

Halve the zucchini crosswise, then slice into 1/4-inch-thick planks. Add the zucchini on top of the chicken (yes, it can touch the raw chicken), drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt. Use your hands to coat the zucchini in oil and salt — it’s fine if some of the harissa gets on the zucchini, but you don’t want to totally toss the zucchini and chicken together.

Grill the chicken and zucchini for 5 to 7 minutes per side, or until the chicken registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and the zucchini is very, very tender — like, smushy! It’s so good when it’s a bit smushy. Transfer everything from the grill to a large serving platter. Let the chicken rest.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a medium bowl, stir together the labneh, the remaining 1 teaspoon harissa, the juice of the remaining lemon half, and ¼  teaspoon salt. Taste and add more harissa or lemon juice if you want.

Tear some soft herbs right over top for a pop of color and freshness. Throw everything on the table and let everyone serve themselves!

Tip:  No grill? Throw everything onto a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet and roast at 425 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, until the chicken breast reaches 160 degrees (it will continue cooking while it rests to reach a safe 165 degrees).

— Caroline Chambers, “What to Cook When You Don’t Feel Like Cooking” (Union Square & Co., $35)

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we use a minimal amount of water to cook the pasta, then blend some of the starchy liquid with tender sautéed zucchini and golden garlic to create a creamy consistency without cream. Cooking pasta in less water than typically called for concentrates the starches that leach out of the noodles. That super-starched liquid can be used to create silkier, creamier sauces without the need for added dairy.

Look for zucchini that are medium in size, or that weigh about 8 ounces each, as larger zucchini can be too seedy. Medium zucchini yield matchsticks of a good length for the dish. And be sure to seek out a chunk of pecorino and grate it yourself. The flavor will be fresher and fuller than cheese that’s purchased already grated.

If you own an immersion blender, it works well for making the zucchini-garlic puree; simply transfer the ingredients to a medium bowl and blend. When smooth, return the mixture to the pot. Cook and toss with the drained pasta, butter, pecorino, basil and additional pasta water until the mixture is creamy and the pasta is lightly sauced, adding more pasta water as needed if the mixture looks thick and dry.

Pasta with Pecorino-Zucchini Sauce and Basil

Start to finish: 40 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients

• 1½ pounds medium zucchini
• 1 pound spaghetti OR bucatini
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
• 3 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 2 pieces
• 2 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (1 cup), plus more to serve
• ½ cup lightly packed fresh basil, chopped

Directions

Thinly slice the zucchini on the diagonal. Stack several slices and cut lengthwise into matchsticks. Repeat with the remaining slices; set the zucchini aside.

In a large pot, bring 3 quarts water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and 2 teaspoons salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve about 1½ cups of the cooking water, then drain; set aside.

In the same pot, combine the oil and garlic. Cook over medium, stirring, until the garlic is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the garlic to a small plate, then add the zucchini to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is lightly browned and soft enough to mash with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Add half of the zucchini to a blender along with the garlic and ½ cup reserved pasta water. Puree until the mixture is smooth, about 30 seconds.

To the zucchini in the pot add the puree, drained pasta, butter, pecorino, basil and another ½ cup reserved pasta water. Cook over medium, tossing, until heated through and the mixture is creamy and the pasta is lightly sauced, 2 to 3 minutes; add more reserved pasta water as needed if the mixture looks thick and dry. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with additional oil and sprinkled with additional cheese.

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I’m also sentimental for the staccato sounds and movements of cooking at this time of year. The chop-chop-chopping. Sizzles. Searing. As Labor Day weekend, the unofficial end of summer, gets closer and my recipe-development docket fills with Thanksgiving dishes and holiday cookies, the stirring of steamy pots and hoisting of heavy sheet pans have started again — and I’m not ready.

So this is my scrapbook of the season. All of the recipes memorialize the speed and style of warm-weather cooking — each takes around 20 minutes — but don’t rely on fleeting summer produce. In the dead of winter, when you’re nostalgic for brighter times, return to these recipes for dinner.

1. Chilaquiles Verdes

Chilaquiles are beloved all over Mexico and across the U.S. Southwest. Tortillas are fried, simmered in salsa and adorned with a multitude of herbs and proteins that vary with the chefs cooking them. Some folks prefer their totopos (tortilla chips) crisper, while some like them softer. Chilaquiles can be doused in salsa, but just a bit can yield a meal just as delicious. Though it really is worth stretching for the best quality tortillas you can find and frying them to your liking, in a pinch, buying the best tortilla chips you can works, too. Bottled salsa will do, if absolutely necessary, but a quick homemade salsa will produce dividends in taste with relatively little labor.

By Bryan Washington

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

For the roasted salsa verde: (optional; see Tip below)

• 4 medium tomatillos, husks removed
• 1/2 small onion
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 to 2 small serrano chiles, stems removed
• 1 cilantro sprig
• Salt

For the tortilla chips: (optional; see Tip below)

• 5 tablespoons neutral oil (such as sunflower or grapeseed)
• 8 corn tortillas, each sliced into 6 wedges
• Salt
• 1/4 teaspoon chili powder

For the chilaquiles:

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil (such as sunflower or grapeseed)
• 1 small onion, sliced into rings
• 3/4 cup/3 ounces crumbled queso fresco
• Salt and black pepper
• 8 large eggs
• 1/2 cup Mexican crema or sour cream
• 1/2 cup cilantro leaves

Directions:

1. Prepare the salsa verde (optional): Arrange a rack 6 inches from the broiler and set the broiler to high. Set a half-sheet pan lined with foil on the rack. Heat for 5 minutes.

2. Carefully add tomatillos, onion, garlic and chiles to the pan. Broil until blistered and charred, 10 to 14 minutes, turning once halfway through.

3. Transfer mixture to a blender. Add cilantro sprig and puree until almost smooth, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt.

4. Prepare the tortilla chips (optional): Heat a medium cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium and add 5 tablespoons oil. Cook tortillas in batches, frying until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes per batch.

5. Transfer tortillas to a wire rack or paper towels to drain, then place in a medium bowl. Season with salt and chili powder and toss. Taste and season accordingly. Once the oil has cooled, wipe out and reserve the skillet.

6. Prepare the chilaquiles: In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium, then add the salsa verde. (It should simmer upon making contact with the pan.) Simmer for 2 minutes, then taste and season with salt to your preference.

7. Stir in the onion, then add half of the tortilla chips and half of the queso fresco and toss to combine. Taste and season with salt, then add the remaining tortilla chips and toss again. Lower heat and cook until heated through.

8. In the reserved medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium. Working in batches, fry the eggs, cooking to preferred doneness.

9. Divide chilaquiles among plates. Top each with the remaining queso fresco, 2 fried eggs, 2 dollops of crema and cilantro leaves.

Tips:

If you are short on time, use 1 cup store-bought salsa verde and 6 ounces sturdy, thick-cut tortilla chips instead of making your own.

2. Shrimp Bathed in Olive Oil and Lemon

A simple but lavish bath of olive oil and lemon juice is the Italian way of showing off superfresh seafood. The key, according to Marcella Hazan, is that the dish should never see the inside of a refrigerator, which changes the texture of the seafood and the flavor of the olive oil. She calls for shrimp in this recipe, but the formula also works with squid, clams and meaty fish fillets.

Recipe from Marcella Hazan

Adapted by Julia Moskin

Yield: 8 to 10 servings as an appetizer, 4 to 6 servings as an entree

Total time: 20 minutes, plus cooling

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons)
• 2 pounds medium-large shrimp (about 26 to 30 per pound), peeled and deveined (tails optional)
• Flaky sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 large pinch freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Torn or sliced crusty bread, for serving

Preparation:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, preferably not too deep, so you can watch the shrimp as they cook. Pour the olive oil and lemon juice into a baking or serving dish, preferably a white one to show off the colors of the finished dish.

2. Working in a few batches to prevent overcooking, boil the shrimp over high until just firm and opaque, 2 to 3 minutes, removing them to a colander with a slotted spoon. When all the shrimp are cooked, transfer them to the olive oil-lemon bath and gently mix to coat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. The shrimp should be just covered with liquid; pour in more oil as needed. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

3. Just before serving, taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with bread, spooning some liquid over each serving.

3. Thai Larb Gai (Chicken With Lime, Chili and Fresh Herbs)

Larb gai is a dish of browned ground chicken, mint, basil and red onions dressed with lime juice and ground red chiles that’s popular in Laos and Isan, neighboring rural sections of Thailand. (The dish is sometimes spelled laab, lob or lop.) It’s perfect hot weather food: spicy, crunchy and light, but rich in flavors and contrasts. Traditionally, this dish is made with a roasted rice powder that’s prepared by toasting raw rice in a wok, then grounding it to a powder, but you can find premade roasted rice powder at Asian markets. Whatever you do, don’t skip it — it adds a nuttiness that’s essential to the authentic flavor of the dish.

Recipe from Kwan Bellhouse

Adapted by Julia Moskin

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup raw sticky rice (see Tip below) or 2 tablespoons roasted rice powder (available at Asian markets)
• 16 ounces coarsely ground or finely chopped white- or dark-meat chicken (lean beef, such as sirloin, can be substituted)
• 1/2 teaspoon hot chile powder, preferably Thai or Lao
• 4 teaspoons fish sauce (nam pla)
• 5 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• 1/4 cup slivered red onions
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 2 tablespoons sliced scallions
• 10 whole mint leaves, more for serving
• Lettuce leaves
• Cucumber spears, for serving
• 4 cups cooked sticky or jasmine rice, for serving

Preparation:

1. To make roasted rice powder, heat a wok or skillet over high heat. Add raw rice and cook, stirring often, until rice is toasted and dark brown, but not black, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from wok and set aside to cool. Grind to a coarse powder in a mortar, blender or coffee grinder; set aside.

2. To cook chicken, heat a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, add 2 tablespoons water, then add chicken, stirring constantly to break up any lumps. Cook just until cooked through, about two minutes, then transfer to mixing bowl. While chicken is just warm, add remaining ingredients (except for garnishes) and roasted rice powder. Mix gently but thoroughly. Taste and adjust seasonings. Mixture should be tangy, salty and lightly spicy.

3. Spoon onto serving plate and surround with mint, lettuce and cucumber. Serve with rice. If serving with sticky rice, pinch some off, mold into a small ball and dip into larb, scooping up a little of each ingredient. Or scoop larb into lettuce leaves.

Tips:

Larb gai is traditionally served with long-grain Thai or Lao sticky rice, sometimes labeled “glutinous.” It is not the same as Japanese short-grain rice.

4. Cumin and Cashew Yogurt Rice

Yogurt rice is a nostalgic dish for many South Asians and especially South Indians. It’s the ultimate comfort food and a no-fuss dinner that’s easy to put together. Cool, creamy yogurt and crunchy, warm spices create a dreamy contrast that makes this dish feel more whole meal-worthy than snack-friendly (though it’ll serve you well for both). Traditional versions include mustard seeds, curry leaves and urad dal, but this variation includes a different set of pantry staples: cumin seeds, cashews and red chile powder. The trio, plus fresh green chiles, gets sizzled in ghee, enhancing all the rich, smoky, spicy flavors, then gets poured directly over the yogurt rice. Add grated carrots and zucchini to give the rice more heft, or try it with a different combination of spices.

By Priya Krishna

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 10 minutes

Ingredients:

• 3 cups cooked long-grain basmati rice, at room temperature
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger (from about a 1-inch piece, peeled)
• 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt (such as Morton)
• 2 1/2 cups full-fat plain yogurt
• 2 tablespoons ghee (or unsalted butter)
• 1/4 cup raw, unsalted cashews
• 1 Indian green chile or serrano chile, minced
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon red chile powder (such as Kashmiri chile powder or ground cayenne)
• 1/4 teaspoon asafetida (optional)
• 2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro

Preparation:

1. In a bowl, combine the cooked rice, ginger and salt. Fold in the yogurt. The yogurt should evenly coat the rice, so that it resembles a thick rice pudding.

2. In a small saucepan on medium heat, melt the ghee. Add the cashews and chile, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cashews are lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Shift the cashews and chile to the side of the pan, and add the cumin seeds, toasting until they are slightly browned, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stir in red chile powder and asafetida (if using), then turn off the heat.

3. Pour the spice mixture over the rice and garnish with cilantro.

5. Sardines on Buttered Brown Bread

In addition to celebrating the star, sardines, these open-faced sandwiches should be a celebration of good bread and butter. Choose a dense, dark European-style rye, thinly sliced or a rustic whole-wheat bread. They look nice open-faced, but they could, of course, be made in a two-slice format.

By David Tanis

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• 4 small slices dark, dense European-style rye bread
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 1 (4.5-ounce) tin oil-packed sardines
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped dill
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions or chives
• Arugula, for serving
• Cornichons or other pickles, for serving
• Lemon wedges, for serving

Preparation:

1. Lightly toast the bread, then cool to room temperature. Spread each toast generously with butter.

2. Distribute the sardines among the toasts. (Cut large sardines in half lengthwise; leave small sardines whole.)

3. Sprinkle each toast lightly with salt and grind pepper directly over the sandwiches. Garnish with chopped dill and slivered scallions.

4. Serve sandwiches open-faced, with arugula, cornichons and a lemon wedge.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we season the beef with yellow mustard for spicy tang and dill pickles for brininess, then fill pita halves with the mixture, forming a thin layer, along with sliced onion and cheese.

The cheese hits the skillet when the sandwiches are pan-fried, crisping and developing flavorful browning, and creating an irresistible layer that complements the juicy patties. There’s no need for additional condiments or toppings; the burgers are ready to eat as soon as the pita is well browned.

Be sure to use 90% lean ground beef; meat that is higher in fat will shrink and the pitas will be greasy. And don’t worry if the cheese peeks out of the pita and if the bread forms cracks; it will only increase the amount of cheese that makes contact with the pan to brown and crisp.

Pita Burgers with Crisped Cheese

Start to finish: 40 minutes

Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 1 pound 90 percent lean ground beef
• ¼ cup chopped drained dill pickles OR sweet pickled peppers OR a combination
• 2 tablespoons yellow mustard
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• Two 8-inch pita breads, cut into half rounds
• ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced
• 8 slices sharp cheddar OR American cheese
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil

Directions

1. In a medium bowl, combine the beef, pickles, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper; mix thoroughly with your hands. Let stand for about 15 minutes to allow the meat to lose some of its chill.
2. Open each pita half to form a pocket. Fill each half with a quarter of the meat mixture, spreading it to the edges, then lightly pressing on the outside to flatten. Into each pita pocket, tuck a quarter of the onion, followed by 2 cheese slices; it’s fine if the cheese peeks out of the pita and if the bread forms cracks. Brush the pita halves on both sides with the oil.
3. Heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium until droplets of water flicked onto the surface quickly sizzle. Add 2 of the stuffed pita halves and cook until golden brown on the bottoms, about 4 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, flip and cook, adjusting the heat as needed, until golden brown on the second sides and the exposed cheese is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter or individual plates. Cook the remaining pita halves in the same way.

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