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The sun rises on Longs Peak at the beginning of another day in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)
Dawn Wilson Photography
The sun rises on Longs Peak at the beginning of another day in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)
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The Ute Trail is a lengthy path that crosses alpine, subalpine and montane habitats in Rocky Mountain National Park. The trail follows parts of an ancient route across the tundra of Rocky that was used by indigenous peoples for thousands of years to cross the steep mountains.

The western portion of the trail starts at the southwestern end of Poudre Lake at Milner Pass and climbs up above tree line to Fall River Pass and the Alpine Visitor Center.

The eastern portion of this trail picks up seven miles to the east along Trail Ridge Road at a small parking area/pullout on the south side of the road. From here, the trail continues down six miles to Upper Beaver Meadows.

To complete the whole trail combines three sections of trail for a total one-way hike of 21 miles across the Continental Divide and Rocky Mountain National Park, through thick forest and open tundra, and navigating up and down at high elevations.

The east and west trails really are better tackled as individual trails. Here is what to expect for each’s difficulty, elevation and return trips:

A yellow-bellied marmot stands up on a rock to get a better view on the tundra in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)
Dawn Wilson Photography
A yellow-bellied marmot stands up on a rock to get a better view on the tundra in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)

East Ute Trail

The eastern portion of the Ute Trail starts at the small pullout at tree line on the south side of Trail Ridge Road between Hidden Valley and Forest Canyon Overlook.

Other than a small wooden trailhead sign, there is no indication of the trail’s existence.

This six-mile, one-way trail rises slightly as it curves around unnamed rocky ridges as the trail follows along Tombstone Ridge.

As the trail comes out on the south side of the rocky slope to the northeast, views of Longs Peak and the Continental Divide command the attention of hikers.

All along this portion of the trail, as it heads out to Timberline Pass, unique looking rocks litter the landscape. Complete this hike in early to mid-July and hikers will have a plethora of tundra wildflowers, including the vibrant Old Man of the Mountain, or alpine sunflower, to lay their eyes upon.

Keep an eye out for elk, marmots and white-tailed ptarmigan who enjoy this more serene path on the open landscape.

Past Timberline Pass, the trail descends steeply into Upper Beaver Meadows. This portion of the trail is unmaintained, not heavily used and extremely rocky. Past Timberline Pass should only be attempted by those with strong lungs and knees.

Sunlight peeks through the thick forest along the West Ute Trail in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)
Dawn Wilson Photography
Sunlight peeks through the thick forest along the West Ute Trail in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. (Dawn Wilson Photography)

West Ute Trail

Starting at Milner Pass, the trail quickly rises up a few switchbacks on the rock wall on the backside of Poudre Lake. This cool section of the trail is full of small meadows and thick forest.

At 0.6 miles, hikers will reach the junction for Mount Ida. The Ute Trail follows the path to the left at this junction.

As hikers approach tree line, they may consider the option of coming down this trail instead.

The trail will continue out of the forest and onto the tundra where the open landscape of krummholz trees, kettle ponds and lush meadows beckon for many rest stops.

For two miles, the trail gently climbs up the tundra heading towards the Alpine Visitor Center, with the peaks of the Never Summer Range always looming over hikers to the west.

At four miles, the trail reaches Trail Ridge Road, the Alpine Visitor Center and the Trail Ridge Store, where hikers can enjoy a beverage or light snack in their snack bar.

Like the East Ute Trail, wildlife is plenty along this path, with pikas, marmots and chipmunks scurrying across the tundra. A few lucky hikers might share the trail with a moose, elk, bighorn sheep or mule deer.

Remember that on either of these trails, the directions are one way. To return to a vehicle or trailhead you must find a ride or walk back up to the trailhead.

Because large portions of these trails are above tree line, it is important to watch the weather to make sure storms do not catch the hiker exposed on the tundra.

Rocky Mountain National Park charges an entrance fee. The park also requires a timed entry reservation, with both portions of the Ute Trail being within the portion of the park that requires the Timed Entry Reservation from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

For more information about hiking in Rocky, including passes, reservations and trail conditions, visit https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm.

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