It’s easy to gush over summer food, to feel grateful for the generous produce and farmers that have eased our cooking lives. Thank you for the juicy spills of tomatoes and stone fruit, for the smell of basil leaves and melon rinds and for all the color and crunch.
I’m also sentimental for the staccato sounds and movements of cooking at this time of year. The chop-chop-chopping. Sizzles. Searing. As Labor Day weekend, the unofficial end of summer, gets closer and my recipe-development docket fills with Thanksgiving dishes and holiday cookies, the stirring of steamy pots and hoisting of heavy sheet pans have started again — and I’m not ready.
So this is my scrapbook of the season. All of the recipes memorialize the speed and style of warm-weather cooking — each takes around 20 minutes — but don’t rely on fleeting summer produce. In the dead of winter, when you’re nostalgic for brighter times, return to these recipes for dinner.
1. Chilaquiles Verdes
Chilaquiles are beloved all over Mexico and across the U.S. Southwest. Tortillas are fried, simmered in salsa and adorned with a multitude of herbs and proteins that vary with the chefs cooking them. Some folks prefer their totopos (tortilla chips) crisper, while some like them softer. Chilaquiles can be doused in salsa, but just a bit can yield a meal just as delicious. Though it really is worth stretching for the best quality tortillas you can find and frying them to your liking, in a pinch, buying the best tortilla chips you can works, too. Bottled salsa will do, if absolutely necessary, but a quick homemade salsa will produce dividends in taste with relatively little labor.
By Bryan Washington
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
For the roasted salsa verde: (optional; see Tip below)
- 4 medium tomatillos, husks removed
- 1/2 small onion
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1 to 2 small serrano chiles, stems removed
- 1 cilantro sprig
- Salt
For the tortilla chips: (optional; see Tip below)
- 5 tablespoons neutral oil (such as sunflower or grapeseed)
- 8 corn tortillas, each sliced into 6 wedges
- Salt
- 1/4 teaspoon chili powder
For the chilaquiles:
- 3 tablespoons neutral oil (such as sunflower or grapeseed)
- 1 small onion, sliced into rings
- 3/4 cup/3 ounces crumbled queso fresco
- Salt and black pepper
- 8 large eggs
- 1/2 cup Mexican crema or sour cream
- 1/2 cup cilantro leaves
Directions:
1. Prepare the salsa verde (optional): Arrange a rack 6 inches from the broiler and set the broiler to high. Set a half-sheet pan lined with foil on the rack. Heat for 5 minutes.
2. Carefully add tomatillos, onion, garlic and chiles to the pan. Broil until blistered and charred, 10 to 14 minutes, turning once halfway through.
3. Transfer mixture to a blender. Add cilantro sprig and puree until almost smooth, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt.
4. Prepare the tortilla chips (optional): Heat a medium cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium and add 5 tablespoons oil. Cook tortillas in batches, frying until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes per batch.
5. Transfer tortillas to a wire rack or paper towels to drain, then place in a medium bowl. Season with salt and chili powder and toss. Taste and season accordingly. Once the oil has cooled, wipe out and reserve the skillet.
6. Prepare the chilaquiles: In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium, then add the salsa verde. (It should simmer upon making contact with the pan.) Simmer for 2 minutes, then taste and season with salt to your preference.
7. Stir in the onion, then add half of the tortilla chips and half of the queso fresco and toss to combine. Taste and season with salt, then add the remaining tortilla chips and toss again. Lower heat and cook until heated through.
8. In the reserved medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium. Working in batches, fry the eggs, cooking to preferred doneness.
9. Divide chilaquiles among plates. Top each with the remaining queso fresco, 2 fried eggs, 2 dollops of crema and cilantro leaves.
Tips:
If you are short on time, use 1 cup store-bought salsa verde and 6 ounces sturdy, thick-cut tortilla chips instead of making your own.
2. Shrimp Bathed in Olive Oil and Lemon
A simple but lavish bath of olive oil and lemon juice is the Italian way of showing off superfresh seafood. The key, according to Marcella Hazan, is that the dish should never see the inside of a refrigerator, which changes the texture of the seafood and the flavor of the olive oil. She calls for shrimp in this recipe, but the formula also works with squid, clams and meaty fish fillets.
Recipe from Marcella Hazan
Adapted by Julia Moskin
Yield: 8 to 10 servings as an appetizer, 4 to 6 servings as an entree
Total time: 20 minutes, plus cooling
Ingredients:
- 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
- 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons)
- 2 pounds medium-large shrimp (about 26 to 30 per pound), peeled and deveined (tails optional)
- Flaky sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
- 1 large pinch freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
- Torn or sliced crusty bread, for serving
Preparation:
1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, preferably not too deep, so you can watch the shrimp as they cook. Pour the olive oil and lemon juice into a baking or serving dish, preferably a white one to show off the colors of the finished dish.
2. Working in a few batches to prevent overcooking, boil the shrimp over high until just firm and opaque, 2 to 3 minutes, removing them to a colander with a slotted spoon. When all the shrimp are cooked, transfer them to the olive oil-lemon bath and gently mix to coat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. The shrimp should be just covered with liquid; pour in more oil as needed. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
3. Just before serving, taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with bread, spooning some liquid over each serving.
3. Thai Larb Gai (Chicken With Lime, Chili and Fresh Herbs)
Larb gai is a dish of browned ground chicken, mint, basil and red onions dressed with lime juice and ground red chiles that’s popular in Laos and Isan, neighboring rural sections of Thailand. (The dish is sometimes spelled laab, lob or lop.) It’s perfect hot weather food: spicy, crunchy and light, but rich in flavors and contrasts. Traditionally, this dish is made with a roasted rice powder that’s prepared by toasting raw rice in a wok, then grounding it to a powder, but you can find premade roasted rice powder at Asian markets. Whatever you do, don’t skip it — it adds a nuttiness that’s essential to the authentic flavor of the dish.
Recipe from Kwan Bellhouse
Adapted by Julia Moskin
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1/4 cup raw sticky rice (see Tip below) or 2 tablespoons roasted rice powder (available at Asian markets)
- 16 ounces coarsely ground or finely chopped white- or dark-meat chicken (lean beef, such as sirloin, can be substituted)
- 1/2 teaspoon hot chile powder, preferably Thai or Lao
- 4 teaspoons fish sauce (nam pla)
- 5 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
- 1/4 cup slivered red onions
- 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
- 2 tablespoons sliced scallions
- 10 whole mint leaves, more for serving
- Lettuce leaves
- Cucumber spears, for serving
- 4 cups cooked sticky or jasmine rice, for serving
Preparation:
1. To make roasted rice powder, heat a wok or skillet over high heat. Add raw rice and cook, stirring often, until rice is toasted and dark brown, but not black, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from wok and set aside to cool. Grind to a coarse powder in a mortar, blender or coffee grinder; set aside.
2. To cook chicken, heat a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, add 2 tablespoons water, then add chicken, stirring constantly to break up any lumps. Cook just until cooked through, about two minutes, then transfer to mixing bowl. While chicken is just warm, add remaining ingredients (except for garnishes) and roasted rice powder. Mix gently but thoroughly. Taste and adjust seasonings. Mixture should be tangy, salty and lightly spicy.
3. Spoon onto serving plate and surround with mint, lettuce and cucumber. Serve with rice. If serving with sticky rice, pinch some off, mold into a small ball and dip into larb, scooping up a little of each ingredient. Or scoop larb into lettuce leaves.
Tips:
Larb gai is traditionally served with long-grain Thai or Lao sticky rice, sometimes labeled “glutinous.” It is not the same as Japanese short-grain rice.
4. Cumin and Cashew Yogurt Rice
Yogurt rice is a nostalgic dish for many South Asians and especially South Indians. It’s the ultimate comfort food and a no-fuss dinner that’s easy to put together. Cool, creamy yogurt and crunchy, warm spices create a dreamy contrast that makes this dish feel more whole meal-worthy than snack-friendly (though it’ll serve you well for both). Traditional versions include mustard seeds, curry leaves and urad dal, but this variation includes a different set of pantry staples: cumin seeds, cashews and red chile powder. The trio, plus fresh green chiles, gets sizzled in ghee, enhancing all the rich, smoky, spicy flavors, then gets poured directly over the yogurt rice. Add grated carrots and zucchini to give the rice more heft, or try it with a different combination of spices.
By Priya Krishna
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
- 3 cups cooked long-grain basmati rice, at room temperature
- 1 tablespoon minced ginger (from about a 1-inch piece, peeled)
- 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt (such as Morton)
- 2 1/2 cups full-fat plain yogurt
- 2 tablespoons ghee (or unsalted butter)
- 1/4 cup raw, unsalted cashews
- 1 Indian green chile or serrano chile, minced
- 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
- 1/4 teaspoon red chile powder (such as Kashmiri chile powder or ground cayenne)
- 1/4 teaspoon asafetida (optional)
- 2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro
Preparation:
1. In a bowl, combine the cooked rice, ginger and salt. Fold in the yogurt. The yogurt should evenly coat the rice, so that it resembles a thick rice pudding.
2. In a small saucepan on medium heat, melt the ghee. Add the cashews and chile, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cashews are lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Shift the cashews and chile to the side of the pan, and add the cumin seeds, toasting until they are slightly browned, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stir in red chile powder and asafetida (if using), then turn off the heat.
3. Pour the spice mixture over the rice and garnish with cilantro.
5. Sardines on Buttered Brown Bread
In addition to celebrating the star, sardines, these open-faced sandwiches should be a celebration of good bread and butter. Choose a dense, dark European-style rye, thinly sliced or a rustic whole-wheat bread. They look nice open-faced, but they could, of course, be made in a two-slice format.
By David Tanis
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
- 4 small slices dark, dense European-style rye bread
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1 (4.5-ounce) tin oil-packed sardines
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 tablespoon chopped dill
- 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions or chives
- Arugula, for serving
- Cornichons or other pickles, for serving
- Lemon wedges, for serving
Preparation:
1. Lightly toast the bread, then cool to room temperature. Spread each toast generously with butter.
2. Distribute the sardines among the toasts. (Cut large sardines in half lengthwise; leave small sardines whole.)
3. Sprinkle each toast lightly with salt and grind pepper directly over the sandwiches. Garnish with chopped dill and slivered scallions.
4. Serve sandwiches open-faced, with arugula, cornichons and a lemon wedge.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
